Thursday, September 10, 2026

"Lonesome Dove" is all the Westerns

 A few times I’ve taught a long term course called “Literature of the American West." The idea came from a comment I once read that something like 90% of the texts high school students study in a typical American Literature course come from east of the Mississippi River.  Based on my recollection of the textbooks I had taught from that imbalance rang true to me, so when we changed the arrangement of our overall literature curriculum and realized we needed to offer different flavors – so to speak – of American Literature, I began to offer Literature of the American West.   It's one of my favorite courses to teach, but I always feel a little insecure about it, as though it has to be legitimized – I assume people will think it is kid stuff pretending to gravitas, Hoss Cartwright displacing Hester Prynne.  Perhaps because of that course content insecurity, in Lit of the West I take care to deliver premium substance and approach it in a serious way:  All the Pretty Horses, True Grit, My Antonia, Little Big Man, True West, High Noon, and lots of talk about the Olympian cowboy and sacralization of gun violence and the national urge to self reinvention and the racist subtexts of Manifest Destiny.  Louise Erdrich and Joan Didion and Bass Reeves get time in the spotlight.  The Western itself is right up there with rock and roll as our most influential pop culture export (the "Bedouin Western" Theeb is a wonderful example).  It also provides a great case study in the evolution of a genre, from its most primitive Buffalo Bill manifestations to the classic to the adult to the revisionist.  

Of course Larry McMurtry is one of the indispensable names in that course.   I’ve read some of his work over the years, starting with a beautiful short essay on faith and mortality that ran in New Republic after the 1993 Waco disaster.  I’ve also read Horseman Pass By (the source material of the film Hud), The Last Picture Show, and his short biography of Crazy Horse.  In the early days of Lit of the West my students read McMurtry’s essay “Inventing the West”, partially because it is so brilliantly written but also because what he says about the role of media in creating our conception of the West becomes a kind of Rosetta Stone for our interpretation of Western American literature.   He writes, “In my view the main reason the Old West became so popular as entertainment was that the great engines of the media were well stoked before the actual settling was even half completed.”  To illustrate this point he shares a reputedly true story about Kit Carson. Late in life the famous tracker was engaged to locate some Apache raiders who had kidnapped a settler family.  Carson and the posse came too late – the family had been massacred by their desperate captors – but amid the debris of the murder scene Carson discovered something amazing: a dime novel about himself!  That moment is an almost-too-perfect encapsulation of the twisted partnership between the actual West and the created West, one of the core concepts I emphasize in our study of Western narratives.  

McMurtry was prolific, but of course the book his reputation will always rest on is Lonesome Dove, the epic that won him the 1985 Pulitzer Prize.   I have always avoided it and I am not ashamed to say why:  900 page books are not for me, I don’t care how good they are.  But for a few years now a voice in my head (with a Texas accent) has chided “Don’t be so such a tenderfoot, Pardner, you know it’s probably as great as everyone says it is."  Last month I finally saddled up and started Lonesome Dove.

It is as great as everyone says it is.  I won’t go into all the “whys” of its greatness, but I’m glad I didn’t try to read it until a couple of things happened to make me more open to what makes it special.  One is my reading last spring of Eliot West’s prize-winning history of the American West in the age of expansion, Continental Reckoning.  The proud Texan McMurtry knew ranches and horses and cowboys from extensive first-hand experience, but he was also a voracious critical reader of Western history.  That extensive knowledge, and the consciousness of the region's complexity that it fostered, is one of the strengths of all his fiction, including Lonesome Dove.  Continental Reckoning took my appreciation of that quality to another level.  Particularly illuminating in this case was West’s rich account of the utter craziness of the boom in the cattle business in the West after the Civil War.  Like a tech boom but with livestock.   

I’m also glad that I had taught “Literature of the American West” a few times before I read Lonesome Dove.  I needed that background or I might not have been able to really get what I think McMurtry is up to in this novel.  Lonesome Dove is not 900 pages because he’s long-winded or overcomplicated or trying to be the Charles Dickens of Texas.  It’s 900 pages because in Lonesome Dove Larry McMurtry tries to do all the Westerns.    

This view cannot be original with me.  I imagine the first reviewers noticed it.   I’m just saying that as I got further into the Hat Creek Outfit's mother-of-all cattle drives it gradually dawned on me that Lonesome Dove is so expansive and lush that it's kind of a Bruegel Western, a banquet of narratives in just about every sub-genre of the form, going all the way out to the edge of the canvas. It's the whole warehouseful of Western materials, in all their glory and perniciousness, deployed by someone who knew them all by heart and had reached a point where he could do something ambitious and brilliant with them.  

Among the familiar kinds of storylines from other Western novels and films that I recognized in Lonesome Dove:

The Homesteading Woman – McMurtry’s Clara Allen, out there under the big sky in the endless Nebraska loneliness, building a life for herself and her loved ones, a nascent feminist who has run out of patience with pigheaded men, doing hard things that don’t show up in any of the stories about comfortable East Coast ladies she reads in magazines.  A formidable woman.  It seems to me that McMurtry is in love with Clara, just as Willa Cather was in love with her own pioneer heroine, Antonia Shimerda, on the same Nebraska prairie in those same rough times.  Cather calls the spirited Antonia “a rich mine of life, like the founders of early races.”  That’s Clara, too. She's even got two squabbling young daughters - Ingalls girls for a revisionist Western.

The Motley Crew on a Manhunt - The hapless July Johnson and his deputy Roscoe Brown (from Fort Smith, Arkansas no less!), in the company of a preternaturally bold girl in pursuit of a fairly-unimpressive killer through a wild country – it’s True Grit!  In this storyline McMurtry even features dialogue that could have been written by Charles Portis himself:   “The name Roscoe don’t inspire confidence.  People named Roscoe ought to stick to clerking.”   Rooster Cogburn wishes he had said that.   

Twilight of the Wilderness – Lonesome Dove is set as the mass slaughter of the great buffalo herds reaches its end and during the post-Little Big Horn final subjugation and removal of the Plains Indians.  Like Jack Crabbe in Little Big Man, McMurtry’s characters (the sensitive ones, anyway) do a lot of melancholy musing about what greed and lust for power have cost the world.  Augustus McCrae’s surreal passage through a land of buffalo bones and the violent death of Josh Deets as he tries to protect a blind Indian child - these moments are especially bleak in their evocation of the idea that whenever you talk about "the winning of the West" you're talking about somebody else's loss.  

The Border Story – This one disrupts my timeline a little bit because Lonesome Dove (1985) predates the best example I have of another manifestation of that storyline, Cormac McCarthy’s All the Pretty Horses (1992).  I can’t really say that McMurtry’s cowboys crossing the Rio Grande to raid South of the Border are an echo of McCarthy’s John Grady Cole and Lacey Rawlins doing the same – it’s really the other way around.  But the drama of that dangerous back-and-forth, the historically hostile yet intimate relationship between the United States and Mexico has always been there for Western novelists who dare to engage with its complications of power and politics and culture.  McMurtry does it well.  

The Meta Story - Some of the most memorable Westerns make a point of providing caustic commentary on the role of the media in creating the West of legend.  They give you some version of Kit Carson finding a Kit Carson book at the scene of a massacre.  In The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, John Ford shows us starstruck newspaper reporters interviewing Ransom Stoddard about his famous gunfight (and preferring the legend to the disillusioning truth he tells them).  At the end of Unforgiven, Clint Eastwood shows us Beauchamp the dime novelist grilling William Munny for the sensational details of a shootout so he can get the story to the printers while it's still hot.  McMurtry does it, too.  He waits to the very end of Lonesome Dove to do it, but he does it.  In a moving coda (or an appallingly misguided one in Clara's view), Woodrow Call travels across a continent to bring the body of his partner Augustus McRae back to Texas.  Word gets out about this quixotic journey, and in Santa Rosa an eager young journalist accosts Call to get his story:  “Captain, they say you were the most famous Ranger. They say you’ve carried Captain McCrae three thousand miles just to bury him. They say you started the first ranch in Montana. My boss will fire me if I don’t talk to you. They say you’re a man of vision.” Now tormented with doubts about the purpose of his life, Call turns down the invitation to participate in his own mythologizing.  This scene is about as redolent as redolent gets of Westerns commenting on their own artifice.     

That’s just five.  There are a lot more I could identify and explain, storylines that in their hearkening back range from Shane to the Man With No Name.  Lonesome Dove features epic fistfights in saloons and do-or-die confrontations with outlaws and haunted boys in search of their distant fathers and terrifying captivity narratives and stark meditations on the violent roots of civilization and complex human relationships with oddly named horses and vulnerable women navigating a vicious world and hallucinatory accounts of extreme endurance in the desert and charming but pathetic barroom gamblers destined for a bad end and many, many more kinds of Western stories you already know the template for.  Like I said – it's got all the Westerns.  It is most fitting that an insanely ambitious cattle drive is at the center of this insanely ambitious novel.   


Sunday, September 06, 2026

My Iron Curtain Tour

My school offers a generous program in which faculty may apply for grants for travel and study around special interests.   Last fall I made a pitch to visit Berlin and Prague, with a particular emphasis on sites related to the lives of Germans and Czechs behind the Iron Curtain.  I’ve taught a few short term courses on film and literature that depicts life in the Soviet Union, East Germany, Castro’s Cuba, the People’s Republic of China, and the premise of my pitch was that it was a shame I had never set foot in any of those places.  Now, thanks to the generosity of my benefactors, I've been there.  In June Becki and I found ourselves strolling peacefully along Alexanderplatz in Berlin and in Wenceslas Square in Prague, places that were essentially off limits when we were young.

We saw some astonishing things I’d love to tell you about.  In Berlin we watched gray-haired metalheads congregate around Dietrich Bonhoeffer’s church.  In Prague we watched a kid feed a huge swimming rodent on the banks of the Vitava, against all the rules on the signs.  Wherever we were we noticed that Europeans walking their dogs don’t appear to enjoy having dogs and would prefer that you don't enjoy them, either.  But if I started going in to all that kind of stuff, I’d ask too much of your attention spans, even the ones of you who are especially polite and attentive.  So less is more.  Here are four things I think are worth telling you about, each of them in keeping with the essential purpose of our trip:  to see relics of life behind the Iron Curtain.   

Berlin

Bornholmer Straße

One of the inspirations for the Berlin trip was Australian writer Anna Funder’s 2003 book Stasiland, an account of her effort to uncover the stories of the experiences of East Germans under the GDR regime.  She combines a memoir of her daily life in barely-liberated former East Berlin in 1994 with the stories of erstwhile GDR citizens who consent to be interviewed.  Even though Becki and I were under Stasiland's influence, we had no particular intention of staying in what used to be East Berlin.  But that’s where our search parameters landed us, in a walkable neighborhood of the Mitte district, close to Weinsbergpark.  It used to be behind the Wall - as one building in the neighborhood announced in letters that covered its front from top to bottom (in German), “This house previously stood in another country.”  We had brought along our copy of Stasiland, and as we wandered the streets and thumbed through the book we realized that we were essentially lodging exactly where Funder had lived during her time in scruffy, retooling used-to-be East Berlin.  The final evidence was a statue of Heinrich Heine at one entrance to the park.   

Funder's first subject as a former GDR citizen, the center of the most detailed and most memorable testimony in Stasiland, is Miriam Weber.  As a teenager in Leipzig in 1968, Miriam got in trouble with the state for posting leaflets mildly objecting to the state’s treatment of protestors.  By “got in trouble” I mean “arrested and put on trial.”  Rather than expose herself further to what she had already experienced of the GDR’s harsh treatment of dissenters, 16-year-old Miriam resolved to take the desperate step of going over the wall.   Miriam’s account (as narrated by Funder) of her inches-away-from-success effort to make it across the border into the West is riveting.  She recalls navigating the fences and tool sheds and private gardens near her chosen crossing point, the Bornholmer Bridge, trying to elude the search lights and police dogs and barbed wire.  As Miriam tells Funder the harrowing story of her failed escape decades after it happened, it almost seems to be far enough in the past to be spoken of lightly.  But not far enough:   

I laugh with Miriam as she laughs at herself, and at the boldness of being sixteen. At sixteen you are invulnerable. I laugh with her about rummaging around for a ladder in other people's sheds, and I laugh harder when she finds one. We laugh at the improbability of it, of someone barely more than a child poking around in Beatrix Potter's garden by the Wall, watching out for Mr McGregor and his blunderbuss, and looking for a stepladder to scale one of the most fortified barriers on earth. We both like the girl she was, and I like the woman she has become.


She says suddenly, “I still have the scars on my hands from climbing the barbed wire, but you can't see them so well now.”

That line makes me think of Alfonsa and her mangled hand in All the Pretty Horses:  "Our scars have a way of reminding us that our past is real."  For Miriam it is a bitter past: her arrest near Bornholmer Bridge initiated half a lifetime of dreadful experiences with the GDR state, including sleep-deprivation torture and the suspicious death of her husband while he was in state custody.  

Becki and I hazarded a train ride to Bornholmer Bridge to see if we could find the specific place where Miriam tried to breach the Berlin Wall.  That bridge is historical now – it was the first place where GDR border guards said “what the hell” and opened the way to West Berlin in 1989.  There are memorial displays there to commemorate that event, plus graffitied remnants of the wall.  And yes, we found we could walk right to the tracks and paths and private gardens where Miriam Weber took her chance and got her scars.     

Normannenstraße

One of the must-sees of our trip was the gigantic headquarters of the Stasi, the Ministerium für Staatssicherheit, the legendarily pervasive East German secret police.  According to Funder, in the GDR there was one Stasi officer or informer for every 63 people, the highest percentage in the world.  Why so many spooks and snitches?  As historian Katja Hoyer writes in her marvelous Beyond the Wall, the GDR’s founders had spent the 1930s as exiles in Moscow during Stalin’s terror and learned the lessons of his brand of totalitarianism a little too well – they were always trying to surpass their Soviet counterparts in the field of paranoid mass surveillance and brutal suppression of dissent.  You can see that "Nobody's gonna out-Big Brother us!" spirit at the old Stasi complex on Normannenstraße, the 50 building control center of this massive effort.  It is preserved today as a museum.   It would be hard to find a more impressive example of the predilection of East Bloc states to try to intimidate through scale.  The buildings are not only monotonous but Death Star colossal.  Can you not see, little Dissident?  Resistance is futile. 

But many resisted, when and how they could.  In Funder’s retelling of the end of East Germany, one of the most inspiring stories is how in January of 1990, ordinary East Germans saw towers of smoke coming from the Stasi complex and began to gather en masse outside.  What ensued was not a lynch mob, as one might imagine, but prevention of destruction of 40 years of surveillance records.  If there was going to be a cover up of all the spying, it would be on terms determined by the spied upon.  Similar interventions happened at Stasi offices all across the country.  As Funder tells it, the former GDR on the cusp of reunification struggled as a polity with what to do with all those millions of files and the recriminations their opening could lead to.   In the end, the files that remained were preserved and made available to those who had been surveilled.   If you’ve seen The Lives of Others, you’ll remember the electric moment when the formerly wiretapped playwright Georg Dreyman goes to Normannenstraße to review his files and realizes that a Stasi mole had risked all to try to protect him.   

When Becki and I visited Normannenstraße there was a moment when I had a flash of realization –  as we approached House 7, home of the records, to see the exhibits there, we were walking in Dreyman’s footsteps.

As Funder toured the former East in the nineties, the effort was well underway to preserve Stasi HQ in amber, and the place we visited in June is the fruit of the effort.  The term “banality of evil” is overused, and perhaps misused, too, but in this case the sheer mundanity and everyday seventiesness of the offices and décor is impossible to miss, and it makes an impression.  Becki said the desks and chairs made her feel as though she should have been asking for a late pass in 7th grade.   That’s exactly how it looks – except, as we were well aware, the effort these bland bureaucrats were engaged in was to stifle free thinking and limit freedom of movement and to infiltrate private life.  Our tour guide observed that part of the insidiousness of the Stasi’s organizational structure was to disaggregate every shameful task of surveillance and control so that no single functionary might think of himself as definitively tyrannical:  I’m not the oppressive secret police! I’m just a guy who makes sure the files are alphabetized.      

Prague

Švejk 

We came to believe that the sound of Prague is suit-case wheels on cobblestones.  The heavy tourism in that well-preserved old city makes it feel a bit like a fairy tale metropolis under a cloud of Myrtle Beach vibe.  As we meandered through Prague's older streets and back and forth across the legendary Charles Bridge, we noticed a couple of locations of what appeared to be a franchised sit-down restaurant, maybe a kind of Applebee’s of the Czech Republic, called “Švejk.”   The signage featured a cartoon mascot, a cheerfully smiling tubby soldier who reminded Becki of Beetle Bailey.  We were intrigued.  A Google search revealed that this “Švejk” fellow is a character from a famous novel by the Czech author Jaroslav Hasek, The Good Soldier Švejk (1923) about the misadventures of a draftee in the Austro-Hungarian army during World War 1.  We tried out a Švejk restaurant near our hotel.  The food was nothing to write home about, but the existence of the Švejk chain prompted me to acquire a copy of Hasek’s novel when we got back to the States.  

The first chapter is called "Švejk Intervenes in the Great War".  That's an accurate enough title if by "intervenes" you mean "pinballs farcically through the malfunctioning gears of a great power's military machine."  Švejk turns out to be such a hilariously duty-shirking, officer-maddening, subversive doofus of a character that you could transplant his restaurant to the U.S. and rename it “Yossarian’s”.   In fact, it was unsurprising to learn that Joseph Heller said he could not have written Catch-22 if it weren’t for Hasek.  The influence is unmistakable.  Whether Švejk is forging dog pedigrees to con buyers or feigning half-wittedness to avoid military service or trying haplessly to manage his commanding officer's unruly mistress, you can practically see Captain Yossarian in the corner taking notes.  The Good Soldier Švejk is very funny, but it is comedy underscored with the distinctive bitterness common to war literature composed by veterans (it shares that quality with Catch-22 as well).  Even as Hasek makes us laugh at Švejk’s endless supply of vulgar, screwball anecdotes for any predicament he's in, there’s no mistaking his rage at the architects of the Great War and all the suffering it caused, in this case the Austro-Hungarian military and aristocracy.  Hasek died before he could complete the novel to his satisfaction, but even in the state he left it it became an iconic text of Czech literature.  

The Soviet-satellite regime in Czechoslovakia backed two film versions of The Good Soldier Švejk, I presume because some of the primary targets of Hasek’s satire are the very targets any conscientious Marxist would have chosen, such as greedy capitalists and corruption in the church (for a time Švejk serves a military chaplain who makes Baby Billy Freeman look like Saint Francis).  But learning that the CSSR supported filming The Good Soldier Švejk made me think of Swift’s maxim that satire is a kind of magic mirror where people can see everybody’s face but their own. The regime that sanctified Švejk's misadventures with a film adaptation was notorious for the kind of institutional hypocrisy and cruelty and incompetence those misadventures ridicule. If an anti-authoritarian satire like The Good Soldier Švejk is a treasured piece of your national literature, then you’re probably wired never to tolerate the kind of despotic rule that prevailed in Czechoslovakia from 1948 to 1989.  

Whether it really honors Švejk to feature his image on a menu that looks like it ought to offer deluxe loaded nachos  - that’s a question for another discussion, one about the return of capitalism to Eastern Europe.  

Stalin Letná

At the Museum of Communism in Prague I was particularly attracted to the displays on the Prague Spring (the ill-fated, largely student-led effort at liberalization in 1968 that ended with a Soviet invasion) and the Velvet Revolution (the huge non-violent demonstrations in 1989 that meant an end to the totalitarian regime).  I mostly knew what to anticipate from these displays, but I was unprepared for how moved I would be by a particular photograph, one of two men of different ages, taken in 1989.  
The younger man was immediately recognizable as Vaclav Havel, the dissident playwright whose eloquence and courage made him the international face of the drive to liberate Czechoslovakia from authoritarian rule in 1989.  The older man was Alexander Dubček, the Slovak statesman who had been the primary leader of the Prague Spring in 1968 and fell from power when the crackdown happened.  For some reason it stunned me to see them together - I had just assumed that Dubček hadn’t survived the Prague Spring, that the KGB had disappeared him into a Gulag, or that he had died pitifully like one of those self-immolating protesters in the aftermath of the Soviet tanks.  But the truth was that he had just lived on in obscurity, and it was moving to see him in his old age, embracing Havel, having lived long enough to celebrate the success of a cause that must have seemed doomed 20 years before. 

Some of those big demonstrations in 1989 happened in Letná Park, on a ridge above the city.  At Letná I saw something else that will stay in my memory, in a heartening way.   

At the Museum of Communism we also learned the story of a  gargantuan statue of Stalin, the world’s largest, that was erected at the edge of Letná in 1955.  
The sculptor, Otakar Svec, killed himself a few days before the unveiling, apparently guilt-ridden over his own part in glorifying an autocratic monster.  For seven years a 50 foot Uncle Joe stared down dominatingly at anyone crossing the Czech Bridge over the Vitava River, before de-Stalinizing communist authorities had the statue dynamited in 1962.  In 1991 Prague placed a large metronome, kind of a pop art installation, where Enormo-Stalin used to stand.  Skateboarders like to go there.  The Metronome is listed as an attraction in Prague, but way down the list.  Tourist, you'd definitely rather go to the Castle or Old Town or the Charles Bridge.  The Metronome?  Give it a miss.  That's how I felt, too, until we learned the story of the Stalin statue.  Now I wanted to hike up that ridge.   

At the Metronome we found that everything that had been set up long ago to accommodate the world's largest Stalin statue is still essentially there, notably a pair of grand staircases and an enormous concrete pad to support the pedestal.  

Prague is one of those fortunate continental European cities that has never been the target of a full scale bombing campaign, so it has an abundance of fascinating architecture, both old and new, for tourists to gaze upon.  There are all kinds of memorable structures to see and wonder at – the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn, the rotating head of Franz Kafka, the Astronomical Clock, the Dancing House, the Pinkas Synagogue, the Powder Tower – but for this tourist no place in Prague speaks more inspiringly to our times than something that isn’t there - the vast empty space at Letná, an Ozymandian absence, where a monument to human cruelty and egotism no longer stands.   


Recommendations

Books
Stasiland – Anna Funder
Beyond the Wall – Katja Hoyer
Audience – Vaclav Havel
The Good Soldier Svejk – Jaroslav Hasek
Prague Spring – Simon Mawer
 
Films